The post Addition Reno Extends the Kitchen with a Wetbar appeared first on andchristina.
]]>A shed addition is local term for a small, single-story addition on the back of a rowhome. These additions were often built in the 1950s and usually were used to add kitchen appliances like gas stoves and sinks during that time. My addition is about 60 sq ft and is directly between the kitchen and the backyard.


A year ago we had a small leak in the addition roof – although we fixed the leak quickly it caused some damage to the floor in front of the door and the door itself. We had a contractor come in to get us an estimate for a new door, jamb, and threshold but he let us know that we needed to address any damage to the floor before the door went in. We placed the work order and had 2-3 months to get ready before the door arrived.
I already had extra tile from my kitchen renovation on-hand, because I always knew I wanted to update the addition, but never knew when it would happen.
….so if I was going to need to rip up part of the floor to fix any damage, it seemed like I should just rip up all the floor and replace with tile.
…and since I was ripping up all the floor and replacing it with tile, it seemed like I should replace the old sink that I’d always wanted to update.
You can see how this project started feeling like If You Give a Mouse a Cookie.
I wasn’t ready to decide between powder room/laundry/custom pantry just yet, and we needed to get the floor fixed before the door arrived, so we decided that we would focus on replacing the sink and leave enough empty space where we could make that decision in the future. In the meantime, I’d put a freestanding cabinet in the corner to use for storage.
So I ordered the main fixtures, found a contractor, and we started the work!

When we had pulled up the floor to lay new subfloor, I started looking at the wall behind the pegboard – the visible brick beneath the floor looked like it was in good condition – it was really straight, it wasn’t crumbling – so we decided to pull down the board over the wall and seal the brick.


I was unpleasantly surprised to see many, many layers of paint. If I had been DIYing this project I might have tried stripping off all of the paint to get the brick below, but because I was working with a GC and we had timelines to keep, I decided to just paint the brick white – still much better than the board that was up previously!


After laying the floor tile and installing the sink, the room started to come back together!
We installed a butcher block countertop that matched our other countertops to make the mudroom feel more like an extension of the kitchen. We found a sink that had a drainboard which is great for the wetbar but also really convenient for letting plants drain after watering them.

An dual-zone beverage fridge was the most fun addition – it adds so much storage and is in a great location for when we’re hanging out in the backyard.

So what’s next for this room?
As far as making a decision for a powder room, laundry room, or custom pantry – I’ll give myself another year or two to think about it!
In the meantime, I’m adding a tall freestanding cabinet to the left of the sink – a freestanding cabinet will give us storage but flexibility to move it if we decide to build something permanent later.
We’re still waiting on the new glass door and window to arrive as well as new cabinet doors for the sink cabinet. This cabinet base was one that was in-stock and the right size, so I purchased it knowing I’d want to switch the doors to a simpler Shaker style after we installed.

Walls: Valspar Bistro White 7006-4 in eggshell
Trim: Valspar Ultra White 7006-24 in semi-gloss
Floor: Merola metro hex matte black porcelain mosaic tile
Sink cabinet: LifeArt Cabinetry 24-in W x 34.5-in H x 24-in D White Painted Maple Sink Base
Beverage fridge: Lanbo Dual Zone Wine and Beverage Refrigerator
Countertop: IKEA Karlby Countertop in Oak
Sink: vidaXL Stainless Steel Sink with Drainboard
Faucet: Delta Trinsic Pro Pull Down Single Handle Kitchen Faucet in Arctic Stainless

Dual zone wine and beverage fridge

Karlby countertop in oak veneer

HAVSTA storage combination w/glass doors
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]]>The post How to Make a DIY Holiday Bell Garland appeared first on andchristina.
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Bell garlands make a pretty decoration for any holiday and can be layered with some fresh or faux green garland, strung up in a Christmas tree, hung from your mantel, or tied across windows! Learn how to make your own bell garland with tin or brass bells.
We don’t usually do too much decorating for the holidays – we have so many plants already that putting up a tree and stringing garland feels like a lot.
But I found some pictures of bell garlands and knew this was an easy way to add some shine while still feeling very much my style. Bell garlands are easy to make in just a few minutes!

You can use the same bells for your garland or mix and match your bells with different shapes or sizes. I bought a mixed pack of bells so my garland would have a few different shapes, but kept them the same size.


Time needed: 10 minutes.
Measure or hold the string up where you’re planning on hanging it – don’t forget to leave some room for it to drape!
Knot your bells along the twine at an even distance from one another until you’ve strung all of your bells.
Tie off loops at the end of each end of the garland and cut off any excess jute.
You’re done! Layer your bell garland with some fresh or faux green garland, string it from your tree, hang it from your mantel, or tie it across your windows!
The bells on my bell garland are spaced about 4″ apart, and instead of using an every-other pattern with my bells I mixed them up at random. I paired my bell garland with a tassel garland from Ballard Design (sold out).
I think it makes a great, neutral layer that adds just a bit of shine!



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]]>The post 20 Best Battery Powered & Cordless Lights for Your Home appeared first on andchristina.
]]>Many homes don’t have wiring for ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, or an outlet near where you’d like to add some light. There are a lot of great ideas for lighting a room without ceiling lights, but unless you have an outlet, many of them won’t work – and that’s where battery-powered lights are a great solution!
Find ideas and inspiration for battery-powered pendant lights, wall sconces, table lamps, and more!
This set of 3 modern cordless pendant lights are great for illuminating spaces in your home with no power supply. Powered by 3AA batteries, this set includes a remote control and features adjustable lighting and timer.
This cordless pendant light offers a natural, textured look with a rattan shade. Powered by 3AA batteries, features include adjustable light, timer, and remote control.
Powered by 4AA batteries, this cordless Edison style bulb with black, wine bottle shaped metal frame adds a rustic touch to any space. Features a 6 hour timer.
This set of 3 white and wood battery powered pendant lights add a touch of hygge to any room. Lights are powered by 3AA batteries and feature adjustable light, timer, and remote.
This battery powered umbrella style pendant light has pretty scalloped edging and brassy details. Powered by 3AA batteries and feature adjustable light, timer, and remote.
This metal caged pendant light is not only battery powered, but also waterproof! Powered by 3AA batteries this light includes a 60cm chain and features 3 lighting modes.
This battery powered pendant light offers a modern look with bronze hardware and a frosted glass shade. It runs on 4D batteries and includes a 4-stage dimmer, 4-hour timer, and remote control.
This industrial style pendant light includes a black metal shade, brassy accents, and is perfect for a vintage accent! It requires 3AA batteries and features adjustable light and timer and a remote control.
Shop more battery powered pendant lights >>
This set of cordless industrial sconce lights have a black and metal finish that looks great in any space! Powered by 3 AA batteries, this cordless sconce set features adjustable light and timing and a remote control.
This set of cordless modern metal wall sconces are powered by 3 AAA batteries and feature adjustable brightness and timer or remote control on/off switches. Available in 6 stylish colors black, white, grey, green, pink, and yellow – they’re a perfect fit for any space!
This modern, minimal wall sconce is powered by 3 AAA batteries and offers dimmable lighting, on/off via the tap lens or remote control, and flexible neck for directional lighting.
This cordless LED wall sconce features a rechargeable battery, adjustable color and light temperature, flexible swinging head to adjust angle, and remote control.
Powered by 3 AAA batteries, this set of wall sconces features warm wood accents and a modern black shade. The wireless remote control can adjust the brightness and timing sleep mode.
This set of cordless traditional-styled sconces are powered by 3 AA batteries and include 2 brightness settings. Available in black and bronze and can be installed upwards or downwards.
Shop more battery powered wall sconces >>
This metal caged table lamp is great for adding a little ambience to any space and includes a rope detail for hanging. Powered by 3AAA batteries.
This modern, rechargeable battery-powered lamp has 360 degree lighting with 2-level brightness dimmer and comes in four metallic colors – gold, silver, black, and red.
These battery powered table lamps feature a rustic wood frame and work indoors and outdoors – perfect for adding some light to your patio! Powered by 3AA batteries.
This set of modern battery powered table lamps offer a warm light with 3AAA batteries. Their simple and sleek cordless `design makes them easy to add to any space!
This set of bronze caged battery powered table lights work indoors or outdoors – great for adding some light to your outdoor area! Powered by 3AAA batteries.
This table lamp looks like a lightbulb, but is actually made of 100 tiny LED lights and provides 5 hours of light with 1 hour of charge via USB.
Shop more battery powered table lamps >>
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]]>The post 9 Vinyl Record Storage Ideas appeared first on andchristina.
]]>While there are some great options available for storing smaller record collections, I’m going to focus on storage solutions for 200+ records, since you’ll need to be a little choosier about what you buy to hold a larger record collection – you don’t want a cheap bookshelf breaking under the weight of your vinyl!
There’s a few major factors you should keep in mind for storing records – the major requirements are going to be size and strength.
Not surprisingly, a 12″ record is 12″ in height and width – but you’ll want to make sure that your LPs have a little bit of breathing room. Any shelves you buy should have minimum interior dimensions of 12 1/2″ in height and depth to make sure you have room to store your records.
So any shelves you see that have a total dimension of 12″ or 24″ (for 2 tier shelves) are going to be too small for your records, since the interior dimensions will be under 12″.
A 12″ record generally weighs 20-150 grams, with some weighing up to 180 grams – so 100 180g records would weigh approximately 39 lbs. This is an important factor when shopping for a record storage since you need to make sure your bookshelf or storage system can handle the weight of the records you’re storing.
Weight limits become more and more important the taller your record storage solution is – make sure that when you’re looking at furniture that has 3+ shelves in height that you’re paying close attention to the weight limit for each individual shelf!
Record storage solutions under $200

It wouldn’t be a roundup of record shelves without featuring IKEA’s Kallax bookshelves. These are a great entry-level option for folks with a growing record collection.
I personally have an 8-cube and 4-cube Kallax next to each other for long, low record storage with 600+ records and counting!
This organizer is great for a medium-sized record collection. We do not recommend the 6 cube model – only the 2 or 4 cube options – reviewers of the 6 cube model mention that it strains under the weight of LPs.
Shelves for storing vinyl records from $200 – $1,000

Mid-century modern design with a walnut finish that pairs well with industrial, rustic and modern decor – the Crosley Liam record storage cabinet is a simple, classic design.


Made in Cincinnati, Ohio, these stackable cubes feature a unique door that easily slides from open to closed in an array of colors.
I love the ability to add a new storage cube as your vinyl collection grows over time – the flexibility really makes this product great for people with a growing record collection, someone who might move into different spaces over time, or anyone who likes to rearrange their room on the regular.

Made from mango wood, this low record storage shelf features some nice touches like flared feet in addition to its minimal design.


The woodwind bookcase can be found in multiple finishes and multiple sizes (both width and height) along with options for open or closed back and with or without doors.

Vinyl record storage $1,000 and up


Available in multiple sizes with oak, dark ash, walnut, and iroko hardwoods with metal legs in graphite grey or polished metal finishes like copper, brass, and bronze.

Handcrafted from responsibly-sourced hardwood and available in Walnut, White Oak, Maple, Cherry, Madrone, and Myrtle.
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]]>The post How to Hack Your IKEA Besta Media Cabinet appeared first on andchristina.
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IKEA’s Besta cabinet is an easy, affordable option for a media cabinet or console. I’ve always been a huge fan of Ikea’s soft-close drawers and doors, but sometimes the finishes can be a little simple.
Luckily, there are many ways you can customize your Besta console to add a little personality to your space!





Adding custom hardware is a great way to add some shine to your Ikea Besta cabinet – try mixing knobs and drawer pulls in the same finish, or use unique hardware like leather or agate.






You’ll probably find the most ready-made options for door and drawer customization from retailers that specialize Ikea hacking – like Semihandmade, Norse Interiors, and Modern Twig. From real wood veneer to patterned drawers and doors, there is no shortage to how you can customize your Besta console.
But there are also some amazing ways to hack your Besta with DIY doors and drawers – like adding your own wood or cane fronts!



Painting your Besta storage cabinet is an affordable way to add some personality – mix and match some new hardware with a dark or jewel-toned paint color to add some depth to your space.



Although IKEA has glass tops available, getting a custom top in marble, quartz, or butcher block for your Besta media console is a great way to add some more interest.
There are plenty of retailers that offer tops specifically for Besta, but I’d also recommend checking out your local countertop suppliers so you can pick out your top yourself!




After updating doors and drawers, custom legs for your Besta console are another option that’s readily found through various retailers – from major brands known for Ikea hacking to handmade legs on Etsy or similar websites.



If you’re not ready to purchase entirely new doors or drawers for your Ikea Besta console, you can still add some color or pattern using contact paper or adhesive designs!
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]]>The post Best E26 Screw-In Grow Light Bulbs appeared first on andchristina.
]]>Most E26 grow light bulbs don’t have a very high PPF or PAR rating – don’t expect that one of these bulbs will let you grow plants in a closet or room with no light – but they are great options if you want to supplement the light your plants receive.
Although the plants in the front of my living room get bright indirect light during the day, I have grow lamps set on a timer to give them some extra light in the middle of the night.
To figure out how much light a bulb will give off, you’ll need to look at the PPF and PAR ratings.
PPF stands for Photosynthetic Photon Flux and is the amount of light in the PAR zone that is produced by a light source each second.
E26 grow light bulbs with higher PPF usually don’t look like a traditional light bulb – they’re designed with fins or a base structure that helps the bulbs stay cool – but you might want to make sure your lamp has more of a cone-shaped shade to disguise the sides of the bulbs if aesthetics are important to you. Bulbs with a higher PPF might also be larger than a standard lightbulb – so it’s important that you measure your lamp shade to make sure it will fit!
PAR stands for Photosynthetic Active Radiation and is the light that’s actually usable to plants, not just all of the light a bulb gives off.
The higher the PPF and PAR rating, the more light you can expect your plants to receive.
Check out this post on the science behind PAR ratings to learn more >>
Regardless of a bulb’s PPF or PAR rating – how far away your light is from your plant makes a big difference. Most bulbs will include a diagram that will tell you the ideal distance or show you how PPF changes at different distances.
I created this list of E26 plant light bulbs based on my own research and experience (I own several of the bulbs from this list myself) but if you’re interested in a really in-depth comparison, focusing on PPF/Watt or PPF/$ this article from Urban Leaf is really educational.
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]]>The post Where to Find a Mid-Century Modern Fireplace appeared first on andchristina.
]]>Well-known cone fireplace manufacturers like Malm, Preway, and Majestic can still be found in amazing condition if you just know where to look!
Read on to find tips & tricks for finding a mid-century modern fireplace below – whether you’re searching for brand new Malm or you’re willing to hunt for a vintage fireplace.

High cost, low effort
If you’re looking for a pristine MCM fireplace and would rather pay full price than spend time searching – there are plenty of places to buy new mid-century style fireplaces, including directly from Malm!
digsshowroom.com | @digshowroom
fireplacedoorsonline.com | @fireplacedoorsonline

Medium cost, medium effort
There are many vintage stores or shops that specialize in mid-century finds, including fireplaces, and you can find anything from mint-condition vintage Malms, Preways, and Majestics or lesser-known brands to beat-up cone fireplaces that might just need a fresh coat of paint.
The west coast, especially California, has more vintage fireplaces in good condition than you’ll find on the east coast – both from less extreme weather and because MCM was more popular – but you can still find this style of fireplace everywhere across the country.
It’s generally recommended to find a fireplace that has its porcelain enamel finish in good condition and is the color you want instead of trying to paint over an existing finish. There are also many fireplaces that have a matte black paint finish – these are mostly woodburning fireplaces and are meant to be touched up with high-heat stove paint over time.
While I’ve seen some examples of people powdercoating their MCM fireplaces – how a new finish will hold up it really depends on the use. Powdercoating an electric fireplace or gas fireplace would probably hold up a new finish better than one used for burning wood.
If you have any local vintage shops, especially if they focus on mid-century modern furniture, make sure you check them out! You might find that they occasionally get fireplaces – even if they don’t specialize in them specifically.
Check out my list of the best spots for vintage furniture in Philadelphia for some Philly-area shops – I even found my vintage cone fireplace at Discount MCM – one of the stores in the list!
Red Eye Vintage specializes in vintage fireplaces in the best condition possible with the original porcelain enamel finish intact. She also will deliver fireplaces around the country – sometimes driving them to their new homes herself!
Urban Americana has mid-century style fireplaces in a variety of conditions. They get new finds in all the time so keep a close eye on their instagram!
urbanamericana.com | @urbanamericana | @theretroburn
There are many other sellers on Etsy outside of Red Eye Vintage who range from MCM specialty shops to individual sellers.
Like Etsy, there are many single-product sellers on Ebay and you might find the exact MCM fireplace you’ve been looking for here.
Searching the #malmfireplace tag or similar tags like #prewayfireplace will turn up all sorts of sellers – some might even be near you!
https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/malmfireplace/

Low cost, high effort
Last but certainly not least, search for an amazing deal. The biggest difference is how patient you are and how you search.
Keywords like midcentury modern fireplace, malm fireplace, preway fireplace, or majestic fireplace will usually bring you to sellers who know what they have, and have a good idea of what their MCM fireplace is worth. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing – if you have something specific in mind you might be happy to pay a little bit more to get exactly what you want.
Using keywords like cone fireplace, freestanding fireplace, wood stove, steel chiminea or modifiers like funky, groovy, 60s, 70s, swedish, or even ugly might bring you to a seller who doesn’t know what they have and probably just wants to get rid of it.
You might even comb through anything that matches fire place, fireplace, or wood stove. You probably won’t find what you’re looking for right away, but if you setup alerts for common keywords and take the time to regularly check – you might find a great deal on your dream fireplace.
Check Facebook Market regularly for fireplaces near you – or even outside of your area (as long as you’re willing to drive to pick it up)!
Make sure you set up alerts so that you see new listings quickly. You can even filter for items in a specific vicinity from your location.
Just like Offerup, set up alerts for your area and any surrounding areas where you’re willing to travel. I’d also recommend adding an image filter so you can quickly weed out spam.
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]]>The post How to Grow, Care For & Propagate Monstera Adansonii appeared first on andchristina.
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Monstera adansonii are a fast-growing vining plant that thrives in bright, indirect light and can both grow upwards on a trellis and downwards from a hanging basket. Learn more about how to grow, care for, and propagate swiss cheese vine!
Monstera adansonii, also known as swiss cheese vine is a vining plant with glossy green leaves full of oblong holes (known as fenestration).
Monstera adansonii can planted in a hanging pot or set on a ledge where its vines will grow long and trail downwards or it can be trained to climb and make use of its aerial roots.
Swiss cheese plants are a fast-growing easy-to-grow houseplant that thrives in bright indirect light and like to be kept not too wet and not too dry.

Swiss cheese vines are both trailing and vining plants – if you plant them in a hanging pot they’ll grow with their vines hanging downwards.
Shop hanging pots & planters >>
You can also train monstera adansonii to grow upwards – in the wild they often grow by climbing up the trunks of other trees. You can use a moss pole, indoor trellis, or some other support system to give your swiss cheese vine something to climb.
In the wild, monstera adansonii grows under the cover of other plants – so they want bright indirect light. They can grow in 2-3 hours of direct sunlight per day, but browned leaf tips and edges might indicate your swiss cheese plant is getting too much direct light.
If your monstera adansonii is growing spindly with thin vines or small leaves it might not be getting enough light. You should make sure that it’s in a spot with enough sun and that you’re rotating it on a regular basis (so all sides of the plant get sun).
Learn more about types of light and how to care for plants >>
Swiss cheese vine likes an airy potting mix that provides oxygen to their roots and good drainage – adding perlite or orchid bark can help keep your mix from getting too compact.
You can use general or peat-based soil in your mix – while monstera adansonii wants good drainage to prevent root rot, they also don’t want to get completely dry.
Monstera adansonii is pretty easygoing – they don’t like to be too wet but they don’t like to be too dry. Avoid extremes and make sure that your plant has proper drainage to prevent overwatering.
A good test is to check the soil 1-2″ beneath the surface. If it’s mostly dry then it’s time for a drink!
You should remove any yellowing leaves on a regular basis. If your plant is getting spindly or is getting too long, you can prune the vines to encourage growth or if they’re just getting too long.
To prune your monstera adansonii, use a pair of clean scissors to cut right above a node (where the leave attaches to the vine). You can then replant the cut vine directly into the pot to add more fullness to your plant.
Trimming your swiss cheese vine is also a great way to start propagating your own plants.
Monstera adansonii is a fast grower and doesn’t like to be rootbound.
You can check to see if your monstera needs a larger pot by looking at the bottom of it current pot. If the roots are sticking out of the bottom or circling the bottom of pot, you should repot it into a larger container.

Because it is such a fast grower, its easy to propagate swiss cheese vine from cuttings. You can use these cuttings to grow entirely new plants or plant back in the same pot to make your plant look fuller.
At minimum you need one node (where the leaf attaches to the vine) and one leaf to propagate monstera adansonii. I usually make sure my cuttings have at least 2 nodes and a few leaves out of personal preference.
To propagate a swiss cheese vine in soil, take your cutting and put it in a loose, well-draining potting mix.

Propagating swiss cheese vine in water can take several days to see the first few roots and several weeks before producing a new leaf.
To propagate a swiss cheese vine, take your cutting and place it in enough water to fully cover one node, but try to keep the rest of the plant out of the water.
Change the water every few days and monitor for root and new leaf growth. Once you’ve established roots that are about 2 inches long, you can plant your cutting into a loose, well-draining potting mix.
Shop more propagation stations & planters >>
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]]>The post The Best Spots for Vintage Furniture in Philadelphia appeared first on andchristina.
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These shops boast collections that have been carefully selected – some by style and others with a focus on designer pieces.
3232 Collins Street, Philadelphia, PA 19134 (Port Richmond)
betsustudio.com | @betsustudio
960 E Mermaid Ln #13A, Wyndmoor, PA 19038 (Wyndmoor)
discountmcm.com | @discountmcm
4521 Baltimore Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19143 (West Philly)
1331 Frankford Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19125 (Fishtown)
2858 Memphis St, Philadelphia, PA 19134 (Port Richmond)
1915 Washington Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19146 (South Philly)
jinxedphiladelphia.com | @jinxedstore
3650 Richmond St, Philadelphia, PA 19134 (Port Richmond)
midcenturyfurniturewarehouse.com | @midcenmod
159 North Third Street Philadelphia, PA 19106 (Old City)
modemoderne.com
1801 N American St, Philadelphia, PA 19122 (Old Kensington)
provenancecompanies.com | @provenancecompanies
508 South St, Philadelphia, PA 19147 (South Street)
retrospectvintage215.com | @retrospectvintage
3101 W Glenwood Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19121 (Brewerytown)
etsy.com/shop/sandrdrygoods | @searchandrescuedrygoods
2220 E Allegheny Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19134 (Port Richmond)
showrooms2220.com | @showrooms2220
4313 Main St, Manayunk, PA 19127 (Manayunk)
urbanburbfurniture.com | @urbanburbfurniture
542 Carpenter Lane Philadelphia, PA 19119 (West Philly)
weaversway.coop | @weaverswaymerc

You’ll have to do some digging – but sometimes that’s half of the fun!
1800 N. American Street Unit G Philadelphia PA, 19122 (Old Kensington)
beatyamerican.com | @beaty_american
2233 Frankford Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19125 (Fishtown)
circlethrift.com| @circlethrift
2318 Washington Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19146 (South Philly)
habitatphiladelphia.org/restore/ | @restorephilly
710 S 5th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147 (South Street)
phillyaidsthrift.com | @phillyaidsthrift
2441 Frankford Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19125 (East Kensington)
@thunderbirdsalvage
832 N Broad St, Philadelphia, PA 19130 (West Philly)
uhurufurniturephilly.blogspot.com | @uhurufurniturephilly
etsy.com/shop/themodernrepublic | @themodernrepublic
etsy.com/shop/vintadelphia | @vintadelphia
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]]>The post How to Grow, Care For & Propagate Snake Plants appeared first on andchristina.
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Snake plants are a low-maintenance houseplant that’s easy to grow while making a striking statement with their architectural leaves . Learn more about how to grow, care for, and propagate sansevierias!
Snake plants, also known as mother-in-law’s tongue and viper’s bowstring hemp, are a striking plant with stiff, upright leaves that can add a modern or architectural element to your home.
Snake plants were previously classified under the genus Sansevieria but were reclassified as Dracaena in 2017.
Snake plants are also unique in that they release oxygen at night – making them great air purifiers.
Snake plants are a hardy, low-maintenance houseplant that’s easy to grow – they’re great for beginners because they’re resilient enough to bounce back if you make a mistake or two.

Snake plants are a low maintenance plant – they’re often said to thrive on neglect!
Sansevierias can adapt to several different light sources and only need water once they’ve thoroughly dried out, making them a great houseplant for people who travel, don’t have a lot of outdoor space, or are just learning to grow plants at home.
Sansevierias are often listed as low light plants but they really want steady and bright indirect light. They can survive (but not necessarily thrive) in low light and can adapt to full sun – although their leaves can get burnt in direct sunlight.
If your snake plant is in full sun or direct light and the tips turn brown it may be due to too much sun or excessive heat and you should move it into another area where the light isn’t so direct.
If your snake plant has drooping leaves or is turning pale or yellowy where leaf patterns are no longer prominent it might not be getting enough light.
Learn more about types of light and how to care for plants >>
Snake plants are prone to rot from overwatering, so they prefer a loose, free-draining potting mix – soilless mixes or sandy soils like cactus or succulent mixes work well.
You should not use a heavy potting medium like one that contains clay, peat moss, or any soil that stays moist.
You can mix perlite or sphagnum peat moss into your potting mix to promote drainage and aeration.
Sansevierias need very little water – you’re more likely to cause damage by overwatering! You should only water your snake plant when the soil is completely dry.
You can see how dry the soil is by sticking your finger a few inches into the dirt to see if it feels dry or moist.
I usually water my snake plants every 4-6 weeks, but the time between waterings will depend on how big your plants are and how large the pot is.
If your snake plant’s leaves are falling over or are easily pulled off you may be overwatering. Overwatering can cause root rot – you can see if you have root rot by looking at your Sansevieria’s root system – if it pulls right out of the soil, doesn’t have long roots (or any roots), has mushy roots, or smells you may have root rot from overwatering.
If you suspect root rot you can try repotting your plant into a more suitable container – either a smaller pot (if your pot is too big), a pot with better drainage, or by changing the potting mix to something that promotes better drainage.
If you think your plant is too far gone from root rot to repot, you can attempt to save your plant by propagating new plants from cuttings.
Snake plants are slow growers, but if your snake plant happy try looking for the following signs:
If your snake plant has drooping leaves, is turning yellow, or its leaf patterns are no longer prominent, it might not be getting enough light. Try moving it to another area with bright indirect light.
If your snake plant’s leaves are turning brown at the tips it might be getting too much light and you can try moving it a little bit further away from its current light source.
If your snake plant pulls right out of the soil or has droopy leaves it might be getting too much water – you should try giving it a break from water for several days. If your pot doesn’t have drainage or you’re using a very compact, moist soil you might consider repotting your plant, amending the soil with perlite or sphagnum moss to improve drainage, or using a potting mix that’s for cactuses and succulents.
If your snake plant’s leaves are getting wrinkled and droopy your snake plant might not be getting enough water – you can give it a good drink and reassess in a few days.
If your snake plant has outgrown its pot and is rootbound, you can try repotting your snake plant.
Snake plants are slow growers – they only need repotting every few years, and only if they’re very root-bound.
In fact, snake plants like to bit root-bound, so you should only repot if your container has little to no soil or if it starts getting droopy or pale leaves.
While repotting, you might also decide to divide your snake plant to propagate more.
Remember – snake plants like to be a bit root-bound, so repot your snake plant into a container that’s only one size larger than its current container. Using a pot that’s too large can also cause root rot from excess potting soil.
You should look for a pot with drainage or, at the very least, make sure you add a layer of rocks at the bottom and use a potting mix that encourages drainage like cactus and succulent mix or something that includes perlite or sphagnum moss.

You can propagate snake plants by either dividing the plant at the rhizome or by propagation from a leaf cutting in either soil or water.
To divide your snake plant, pull the plant out of its container, brush away the dirt, and look at its base – you should see its rhizomes, which are whitish root-like structures that connect the mother plant to its babies. Using a sharp, clean blade, cut the base into sections.
Leave the plant out to let the rhizome callous over for a few days. After a few days, plant each section into a loose, well-draining potting mix.
To propagate snake plants from cuttings, you should select a healthy leaf that isn’t too old and cut it from the plant using a sharp, clean blade. Cutting a v-shaped notch at the bottom of each cutting can increase the surface area where roots can grow from.
You can propagate an entire leaf or cut the leaf into 3-4″ long segments to propagate several plants from a single leaf.
You should leave the cuttings out for 1-2 days to callous over before putting them into water or soil.

Propagating snake plants in water can take several weeks to see the first few roots and several months before producing a new leaf.
To propagate a snake plant in water, take your cutting (which should have been left out to callous over) and place it in enough water to cover the cut edges of the cutting.
Change the water every few days and monitor for root and new leaf growth. Once you’ve established roots that are about 2 inches long, you can plant your cutting into a loose, well-draining potting mix.
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To propagate a snake plant in soil, take your cutting (which should have been left out to callous over) and place it in a loose, well-draining potting mix.
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