Showing posts with label adventure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adventure. Show all posts

The geothermal fields were otherworldly, volatile, and apocalyptic - with soil and mud ranging from white to blue to bright yellow and red, bubbling, boiling, and steaming. The air was thick, and the smell of sulphur overpowering. We tiptoed across the vents and hiked further up and over a moss-covered hill until we were nearly able to see to the coast.

Our day in the Reykjanes was unforgettable - from ice caves and sea cliffs to geothermal vents and lava fields. We started off by climbing into the Raufarhólshellir, a 5000+ year old lava tube filled with ice stalagmites and mountains of snow. Shielded from the wind, it was calm and quiet in the cave - the only noise was the dripping water from the icicles hanging above us.

After driving further east, we arrived at Skaftafell National Park to begin our climb up the Svínafellsjökull glacier, one of the outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Iceland, which covers more than 8% of the country. After strapping on crampons and grabbing ice axes, we started on our way upwards into the ice.

we found the entire remnants of a horseshoe crab at the beach. i was surprised because usually i only come across bits and pieces or tails. patrick spent a lot of time digging for sand crabs (or mole crabs) and collecting shells and stones to mix in with the soil for our new cacti. i spent most of the day in and out of the water. i like watching the mussels burrow back into the sand when the waves go out.

before heading to find the former location of helvete (the black metal record shop where euronymous founded deathlike silence productions), i translated a quick note online that was supposed to say (but i'm sure the translation is shaky) "is this where the music store 'helvete' used to be? 56 schweigaardsgate yes? they played music in the basement. they wrote 'BLACK METAL' on the wall. is it still there?"
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56 schweigaardsgate |
the location is now a coffee shop and bakery. i had a danish and a cup of coffee while trying to figure out the best way to ask the owners about the store's former life as the hub of the black metal scene. after speaking to the owner, he was nice enough to tell me to go around the back where he would open the gate and bring me downstairs. it was really just an average, unfinished cellar. except that emperor, burzum, and mayhem had all been in the basement when euronymous founded deathlike silence productions in it.

for about two euros you can climb the 533 steps of the south tower of the cathedral to the very top, about 100 meters up, passing through the bell chamber that houses the st. peters bell, which at 24,000 kg is the largest freely swinging church bell in existence. it is a long climb (especially when you're carrying a bag with your cameras and laptop) and once i had walked up and back down my legs wouldn't stop shaking.

Canelés de Bordeaux are petite pastries with a caramelized crust and cake-like interior. when i was in france, i spent a good deal of time munching on macarons and eating Italian-style ice cream, but had been told by a few friends that i simply had to have canelés while i was in the city most famous for them.

While I was there, I picked up a handful of canelés and several different macarons. Violet, mimosa, almond, raspberry, chocolate, and rose. Delicious!


the little flat that i stayed in while in bordeaux was in the st. michel district, only a few minutes walk or a few tram stops from the gare saint-jean, and not even thirty seconds from basilisque saint-michel. the apartment was so lovely and bright. the windowpanes and shutters were covered in peeling white paint. i would throw them open every morning to let the sun stream in.

i loved the little kitchen. i never bought the same bottle of wine twice. once every few days i would walk down rue saint-james to the boulangerie for a loaf of fresh bread. i liked going out for a coffee and chocolate filled croissant.

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